Samoyed  

History

In the very early days, men with their herds roved the plateau of Iran and lived from the land. Property ownership did not exist; the land belonged to all in the beginning, and then later to the swift and the strong. As man-kind increased and separated off into families, tribes of kinsmen had an ever-increasing need of more and more grazing land for their herds, (reindeer was the common herd animal at that time).  Family groups and tribes often drifted off, or were forced off, to farther pastures.Through the centuries this process continued across Mongolia, and farther and farther north went the tiny nomadic tribe we now called the Samoyede people - until at long last they arrived at the farthest reaches of northern Siberia, between the Yenisei River westward to the Petchora River in Russia. Here was a haven, fortressed by Nature's own walls of ice and snow.  And here the Samoyede people with their beloved dogs and reindeer herds remained for centuries since long before the Christian era.Here in this place of peace and plenty, the gentle Samoyed breed that adopts their name from the very people they followed to the ends of the earth, shared their master's bed and choom, feasted and starved even as he did.  His working role was to hunt, herd reindeer, and haul sledges in keeping with his peoples nomadic lifestyles.  Then into this primitive world came the inroads of civilization.  In 1870 stories leaked to the outside world of the peaceful Samoyede people and of their dogs - hidden like the diamond, for so longfrom the world at large.  Specimens were purchased by explorers for Arctic and Antarctic expeditions.  A handful of these dogs found themselves in England after their expedition duties.  There Ernest and Clara Kilburn Scott are credited  with bringing Samoyeds before the English public, and both promoting and developing the breed.  The striking beauty and tractable temperament of the Samoyed made it a popular choice as a companion in America as well.  today the Samoyed is a well loved and recognized breed worldwide, owing its discovery within the western world to its rich and noble working heritage - and enduring love for mankind.No one breed is the ideal for every person, family or situation.  Learning about and understanding Samoyed breed traits, and thoroughly examining ones own lifestyle must first be done to ensure a harmonious meld.  This is an essential step for any human/canine union to encounter success.  The Samoyed is a medium sized (19-21.5" females; 21-23.5" males), social dog with a strong sense of "pack".  He takes well to families large or small; with or without other pets.  Because of his social nature, he should not be expected to endure long periods of isolation without complaint.  A lonely Samoyed can be a noisy and destructive Samoyed.  And please do not rationalize that because he carries a heavy coat, he should be relegated to "outdoor dog" status.  A Samoyed will ALWAYS want to be where YOU are.  Despite his arctic heritage, Samoyeds have adapted quite well to warmer climates.  Not naturally a bothersome or demanding dog, he will exhibit great contentment and pleasure simply by being close to his 'pack'.  Care, however, must be taken in the early training of any breed to ensure that the humans are the unchallenged 'pack leader', to enjoy an obedient and happy pet who accepts authority.  Obedience and puppy socialization classes should be strongly considered for any puppy's benefit, and the Samoyed is no exception. Charming, intelligent, active and playful through old age - Sam is amazingly comical, while thoughtfully sensitive. Samoyeds possess a white, biscuit, or cream double coat - an outer-coat of harsh, straight guard hair for protection against the weather, and a downy, soft undercoat for warmth.  Grooming requirements are not onerous, but they are regular and must be thorough to retain both the dogs comfort and beauty.  Shedding of the undercoat is seasonal, and part of life when one owns a Samoyed.  Sun and moisture are the enemy to the Samoyed's coat, and must be taken to prevent the damaging effects of the elements through thoughtful housing.Samoyeds are not natural guard dogs.  Their friendly nature often make them neighborhood favorites, and it is likely they would greet a thief with almost as much exuberance as they offer those they know. This is one of their most beloved traits however, and fanciers treasure the faithful and loyal smile that greets them every time they come home.  No toy or miniature versions of the Samoyed exist.  Although there are breeds that bear physical resemblance - the treasured Samoyed nature remains exclusive to itself.   
 

TEMPERAMENT *** Intelligent, gentle, loyal, adaptable, alert, full of action, eager to serve, friendly but conservative, not distrustful or shy. Unprovoked aggressiveness is to be severely penalized.           

SIZE *** a) Height *  Dogs - 53 to 60 cm (21 to 23 1/2 inches) at the withers. Bitches - 48 to 55 cm (19 to 21 1/2 inches) at the withers. An oversized or undersized Samoyed is to be penalized according to the extent of the deviation.

b) Weight  **  in proportion to size.

c) Substance  **  The bone is heavier than would be expected in a dog this size but not so massive as to prevent the speed and agility most desirable in a Samoyed. In all builds, the bone should be in proportion to body size. The Samoyed should never be so heavy as to appear clumsy nor so light as to appear racy.

b) Colour ***   They must be white, white and biscuit, white and cream, cream or all biscuit. All of these colours should be considered equal. Any other colours disqualify.

c) Faults  ***   Curly, wavy, flat, droopy, soft or silky outercoat is extremely undesirable. Excessive coat length should be viewed as an exaggeration of type and is a fault. Extremely short, smooth coats are not typical. Lack of undercoat (with seasonal consideration). Coat parting down back.

b) Muzzle  ***  Muzzle of medium length and medium width, neither coarse nor snipy; should taper toward the nose and be in proportion to the size of the dog and width of skull. Length of muzzle should be slightly shorter than length of skull. The muzzle must have depth with a strong underjaw. Whiskers should not be removed. 

c) Nose  ***  Black for preference, but brown, liver or snow-nose not penalized. Colour of nose sometimes changes with age and weather.

d) Mouth  ***  Lips should be black for preference and slightly curved up at the corners of the mouth, giving the "Samoyed Smile". Lip lines should not have the appearance of being coarse nor should the flews drop predominantly at the corners of the mouth. The teeth should be strong, well-set, and snugly overlapping in a scissor bite. Overshot or undershot should be penalized.

e) Eyes  ***  Should be placed well apart and deep-set; almond shaped rims set with lower lid slanting toward an imaginary point approximating the outer base of the ear. both eye rims and eye colour should be dark. Round or protruding eyes penalized. Blue eyes disqualify.

f) Ears  ***  Strong and thick, erect, triangular and slightly rounded at the tips; should not be large or pointed, nor should they be small and "bear-eared". Ears should conform to head size and the size of the dog. They should be mobile and well covered inside with hair; hair full and stand-off before the ears. Length of ear should be the same measurement as the distance from the inner base of the ear to the outer corner of the eye. 

b) Upper Arm  ***  The upper arm (humerus) angles backwards from point of shoulder to elbow, ideally forming a 90 degree angle with the shoulder blade, and is never perpendicular to the ground. The measurement from tip of shoulder blade to point of shoulder should equal measurement from point of shoulder to elbow.

c) Lower Arm (radius & ulna)  ***  When standing and viewed from the front, the legs are moderately spaced, parallel and straight, with elbows close to the body and turned neither in nor out. The angle at the elbow joint should be approximately 135 degrees. Because of depth of chest, legs should be moderately long. Length of lower arm should be 1 to 2 inches longer than length of scapula. Length of leg from ground to elbow should be approximately 55% of the total height at the withers.

d) Pasterns  ***  should be strong, sturdy and flexible. The pastern slopes at approximately 15 degrees from the vertical, allowing for spring and agility, and should not be more than 1/3 the length of the shoulderblade. 

e) Feet ***  Large, long, flattish, a hare-foot, slightly spread but not splayed; toes arched, pads thick and tough, with protective growth of hair between the toes. In natural stance, feet may be turned very slightly out - but excessive turn-out, pigeon-toed, round or cat-footed or splayed are faults.

b) Chest  ***  Should be deep, with moderate spring of rib and flattened at the sides to allow proper movement of the shoulders and freedom for the front legs. Should not be barrel-chested. The deepest part of the chest should be near the 9th rib. Heart and lung room are secured more by body depth than width.

c) Loin  ***  The loin is strong and slightly arched.

d) Croup  ***  must be full, slightly sloping and must continue imperceptibly to the root of the tail.

e) Abdomen  ***  The abdomen should be well shaped and tightly muscled and with the rear of the thorax, should swing up in a pleasing curve (tuck-up).  

b) Upper Thigh  ***  The femur or thigh joins the pelvis at the hip socket, ideally forming a 90 degree angle. The measurement of the femur is equal to the length of the pelvis. Muscle attachments must be very powerful, broad and evenly distributed.

c) Lower Thigh  ***  The lower thigh, comprised of the tibia and fibula, is ideally set at 90 degrees to the femur or upper thigh and is approximately 1/3 longer than the pelvis. This length is very important to the gait.

d) Hocks  ***  Should be well developed, sharply defined and set at approximately 30% of hip height. The rear pasterns should be parallel, and perpendicular to the ground in natural stance and forms an angle of about 120 degrees with the lower thigh or fibula and tibia.

e) Stifle Bend  ***  Stifles are well bent, approximately 45 degrees to the ground.

f) Feet  *** A hare-foot, same as the front feet, although may be slightly longer and narrower than the front. If present, rear dewclaws are to be removed. 

FAULTS *** The foregoing description is that of the ideal Samoyed. Any deviation from the above described dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation. Since the Samoyed is a working breed any faults of soundness should be considered serious.

DISQUALIFICATIONS *** Any colour other than white, biscuit, white and biscuit, white and cream, cream. Blue eyes. Dewclaws on the rear legs.        

Note *** Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

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